[Photo provided to chinadaily.com.cn]
If the name Manolo Blahnik is unfamiliar, perhaps the coveted pair of blue high heels used to propose to the protagonist Carrie Bradshaw in Sex and the City rings a bell.
Having graced the covers of magazines such as Vogue, Elle, and Tank numerous times, Manolo Blahnik is beloved by countless celebrities, including Jennifer Lawrence, Pamela Anderson, Carey Mulligan, and Rihanna. Even the luxury men's shoes he designs are revered by designers like Galliano as akin to "holy scripture''.
Now, this brand, hailed as royalty in luxury footwear, has finally made its debut in the Chinese mainland in Shanghai, after entering the Asian market in 1990 with the launch of a boutique store in Hong Kong.
Kristina Blahnik, the CEO of Manolo Blahnik and niece of the founder Manolo Blahnik, stated in an exclusive interview with China Daily, that it wasn't until the dinner event in Beijing in April, the brand's first event in Chinese mainland, that she realized they already had a strong community foundation here.
"There were about 40 guests, and at least eight of them, if not more, were wearing vintage Manolos that they had acquired throughout their lives," Kristina said, emphasizing the timeless essence of Manolo Blahnik.
"I want Manolo, that name and what it stands for, to exist forever beyond my lifetime. But also I want the shoes to embody aesthetic and quality so that it doesn't matter if you wear them 10 years later, they're still relevant," Kristina said.
[Photo provided to chinadaily.com.cn]
Since 2009, Kristina has been assisting her uncle Manolo in running the family business and assumed the role of CEO in 2013, steadfastly upholding the brand's philosophy.
Entering the Chinese market has also become a step in continuing to convey the brand's design artistry and profound history.
Nestled in the atrium of Plaza 66, Manolo Blahnik unveiled the opening of its first boutique in Shanghai on Nov 4. It also marks Manolo Blahnik's 20th store globally.
"To expand our family business in China marks a huge milestone for the brand. This country has always been a huge inspiration for many of Manolo's designs. This is not only an exciting moment of growth for the house but enables us to bring our beautiful shoes into a country that appreciates heritage, culture and craftsmanship. We are excited to share our story with the wonderful customers of China," said Kristina.
In 1970, Manolo launched his business after a meeting with Diana Vreeland (then Editor-in-Chief of American Vogue) who admired his sketches and advised him to embark on a career designing shoes.
Since then, Manolo has become a household name with over 50 years of iconic designs after opening the first boutique store in London, UK. Unmoved by trends, Manolo finds inspiration in many subjects, from art, architecture, film, literature, and botany. Every shoe starts with a sketch that is artwork in their own right. The fluid brushstrokes and distinguished use of colour give each drawing an impressionistic quality.
[Photo provided to chinadaily.com.cn]
While some may question why his shoes garner such high acclaim, given the era of mass-produced mechanization, Manolo has effectively preserved the art of handcrafted shoemaking, making it less surprising to appreciate his craftsmanship.
"Manolo doesn't see himself as a fashion designer. He just sees himself, as he calls himself, as a cobbler. He is creative, and he just lets his creativity come out in a shoe," Kristina commented on her uncle.
According to Kristina, Manolo visited China in the late 1990s with his first digital camera, capturing thousands of photos. The influence of China can be seen in his collections from that period, spanning the late 1990s and early 2000s.
In 1997, the influential model Guinevere van Seenus wore a pair of Manolo Blahnik designs inspired by the Chinese dragon. Then, in the winter collection of 1999, the pieces China and Noli were unveiled, highlighting the traditional craft of embroidery.
"I think Manolo's fascination and my fascination with China has always been present in some shape or form, and it's the cultural references, it's the artifacts, it's the details ... There's so much already that Manolo has translated into his shoes over the last 54 years.
"From the archives, we could pull dozens of styles that have been inspired by China, from all parts of it, all regions of it. So it isn't a new thing, it's an existing passion, which is why we've been so focused on ensuring that we can open here by being able to tell our story," said Kristina.
[Photo provided to chinadaily.com.cn]
On the opening day of the Manolo Blahnik boutique in Shanghai, a China-exclusive capsule collection was launched to celebrate the grand inauguration. Among them were two pairs named Shanghai and Shanghaisli.
The new capsule collection pays homage to the classic floral artistry found in traditional Chinese gardens with exquisite embroidery and beadwork. When creating the limited edition shoes for China, Manolo specifically drew inspiration from the landscaping concepts of the Yu Garden in Shanghai, built during the Ming Dynasty. Inspired by the exquisite embroidery and rich materials of traditional Chinese brocade craftsmanship, the exclusive edition shoe designs are adorned with symbolic patterns of welcoming spring flowers.
In addition to the shoe designs, the new store's interior design also incorporates elements of Chinese indigenous design, including minimalist local flooring and vibrant furniture designed by Shanghai-based designer Chen Darui.
These designs come form Kristina, a registered architect.This store is also her inaugural design project for Manolo Blahnik.
"If I can build a building, I can build a shoe." This was also a golden phrase that Kristina used back then to motivate herself to join the family business.
"I am able to visualize something in the future of building or what the meaning of this business is going to be. And today, write it down, visualize it, create images of it, design it, and so that everyone with me here and now can understand where we're going and how we're going to get there," Kristina said.
[Photo provided to chinadaily.com.cn]
With her architect's mindset, Kristina holds a clear vision for the company's future. In the pivotal Chinese market, she sees a landscape of opportunities and challenges.
She aims not only to uphold the brand's tradition of craftsmanship and innovation through fostering more collaborative designs but also envisions creating a Manolo Blahnik exhibition in Shanghai in the coming years. This exhibit will narrate the incredible journey of the past 54 years.
"My strategy is just to be honest and tell the story and enhance the community that we already have," she explained.
Additionally, a key focus for her is to prioritize the support and development of young designers. "I know how hard it is, from both having watched my uncle but also knowing many friends in the fashion industry, to launch brand and to be seen," she said.
Moreover, Kristina is intrigued by the impact of social media and social commerce in China, particularly platforms like Xiaohongshu (Little Red Book) and WeChat.
"When I first learned about social commerce, I thought this is brilliant.Why isn't everyone in the world doing this? I'm desperate to learn that," Kristina emphasized that the team will be focusing on social commerce in the upcoming year.
While the path forward in the Chinese market may have its challenges, she has her own set of criteria for gauging success.
"I will never answer a question in terms of commercial success. All these things don't interest us, what interests us is making sure that we're able to tell our story and learn from our community." Kristina said.
[Photo provided to chinadaily.com.cn]
[Photo provided to chinadaily.com.cn]
[Photo provided to chinadaily.com.cn]
[Photo provided to chinadaily.com.cn]
